Shoe sewing machine



Nov. 26, 1940. F. ASHWORTH 2,222 ,9'72

SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 9, 1937 2 sheets-sheet 1 SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 9, 1937 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I jle f0 #ciwum zz v Patented Nov. 26,1940

UNITED STATES snoE SEWING MACHINE Fred Ashworth, Wenham, Mass.,

assignor to United Shoe, Machinery Corporation, Borough of Flcmington, N. 1.,

sey r a corporation of New Jer- Application October 9, 1937, Serial No. 168,249

21 Claims.

The present invention relates to shoe sewing machines and more particularly to outsole sewing machines of the type which employ a curved needle and a curved awl.

In the outsole stitching operation, the outsole, which has been cut out roughly to the shape of the finished shoe, but somewhat ,larger in size, is secured to the out-turned marginal portion of the lastedupper in the case of stitch-down type shoes, or to the welt as in the Goodyear welt shoe. As a subsequent step, the shoeis subjected to an edge trimming operation by which the outsole and other projecting marginal portions of the shoe are cut away closely to the outline of the finished shoe, after which the final edge finishing operations may be carried out. I

The present invention has for its'object the provision in an outsole sewing machine employing a curved hook needle and a curved awl, of

means for trimming the marginal portions of the shoe a predetermined distance from the outseam simultaneously with the outsole stitching operation.

To this end a feature of the invention comprises the provision in an outsole shoe sewing machine employing a curved needle and curved awl mounted on carriers which are oscillated to cause the needle and awl to enter and withdraw from the work, of a rough rounding or edge trimming cutter mounted on the one or on both of the carriers and actuated therewith to trim the margin of the shoe during the oscillating movements of said carrier or carriers towards the work.

Another feature of the invention resides in the provision of an abutment, such as a presser foot or work support, opposite the trimming knife to support the work against the thrust of the knife, such abutment being provided with a recess or opening to receive the knife after it has passed through the work. Also in the construction of the work support to provide for the passage of the cutter when mounted upon the awicarrier, as by an additional opening in the support or by relieving the rear portion thereof.

Another feature of the invention comprises the provision, in a shoe sewing machine of the above type, of a rough rounding cutter or knife which is mounted on the awl or needle carrier to permit adjustment of the cutter relatively'to the awl or needle and adapted to be clamped securely in adjusted position, to enable the machine to trim the shoe at variable predetermined distances from the outseam.

In the drawings illustrating the invention, Fig. 1 is a viewin side elevation of the head portion of a shoe sewing machine embodying the invention; Fig. 2 is a detail view in front elevation of the portion of the machine adjacent the sewing point, showing the work support and presser foot, needle and awl carriers, and the rough rounding cutter or knife mounted on the awl segment; Fig. 3 is a view in right side elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 2; Fig. 4 is a detail view in right side elevation, partly in section, of the awl segment, awl, and rough rounding cutter, showing a portion of the shoe being sewn; Fig. 5 is a detail sectional view taken along the line 55 of Fig. 4; Fig. 6 is a perspective view of the rough rounding cutter or knife employed in the preferred embodiment of the invention; Fig. '7 is a view in right side elevation, partly in section, of a modification of the invention showing the parts adjacent the sewing point; Fig. 8 is a view similar to Fig. 7, but taken at a different point in the cycle of operations; and Fig. 9 is a fragmentary view of a portion of a shoe illustrating the manher in which the shoe is trimmed by the rough rounding cutter during the outsole stitching operation. a

The shoe sewing machine shown in Fig. 1 as embodying the invention is adapted to perform the outsole stitching operation on the stitchdown or imitation welt type of shoe, and is similar to that described and illustrated in United States Patent to Ashworth No. 1,169,909, dated February 1, 1916. Since the invention isnot limited to embodiment in machines of the above type, but is equally well adapted for use in other types of shoe sewing machines which employ a.- curved needle and a curved awl, only so much of the shoe machine is described as is necessary to a full understanding of the invention.

The machine is provided with the usual switch forming devices, including a curved hook needle i0 and curved awl 12 illustrated in -the detail views. The needle and awl are mounted, as will hereinafter appear, to permit oscillation about a common axis, and are actuated to cause the needle and awl alternately to enter and withdraw from the work. J

The work is supported in the machine by means of a work support it and a presser foot IS, the presser foot being actuated to clamp the work during the formation of the stitch and to unclamp the work during the feeding operation, the actuating mechanism being smaller to that of the above mentioned prior patent.

The work support is provided with a welt guiding passage l8 through which a strip of welting may be fed to the sewing point and secured to the awl carrier 20 (see Figs. 4 and 5) fixed upon the stud 22 mounted for rotational and axialsliding movements in arms 24 and 2S projecting forwardly and upwardly from the frame of the machine. The awl is clamped to its carrier by means of cap piece 28, bolt 30 and nut 32, the carrier and cap piece being provided with curved V-shaped grooves in which the shank portion 34 of the awl is received. The stud 22 is reciprooated axially to feed the work by levers 38 which engage the ends of the rod and are actuated by mechanism fully illustrated and described in Patent No. 1,169,909 above referred-to.

Briefly, the mechanism for oscillating the awl carrier while permitting it to move laterally to feed the work comprises an awl driver 38 mounted concentrically with the stud 22 and provided with a surface 40 adapted to cooperate with the surface 42 of the awl carrier whereby oscillatory movements of the awl driver may be imparted to the awl carrier while permitting axial movements oi the latter relatively to the awl driver. The awl driver is in two parts 44 and 46' secured against relative rotation when in assembled condition by pins 48. For a more complete description, reference may be made to Figs. 31-33 and accompanying description in said prior patent.

The needle Ill is the usual curved hook needle and is clamped in a needle carrier 50 by means of a cap piece or clamping block 52 and bolt 54, the cap piece and carrier being grooved to receive the curved shank portion of the needle. The needle carrier is journalled on a boss 55 pro- Jecting from the arm 24 and upon a reduced portion 56 of the part 44 of the awl driver 38, shown in Fig. 5 of the drawings and in more detail in Figs. 27 and 28 of the aforesaid patent,

The needle is supported by the conventional needle guide 51 secured to a needle guide carrier 58 joumalled on the hub 01' the needle carrier 50,

the needle guide carrier being provided with gearteeth 60 meshing with a pinion 62 which is actuated by connections hereinafter described. The needle guide is provided with lugs or bosses 64 through which the needle passes, one, oi said lugs being formed with an extending portion at which.

serves as a deflector to prevent the loop oi needle thread catching on the needle guide.

The awl carrier is oscillated by connections from the main driving shaft 68 of the machine, these connections compr s ng a c ank I9 on the shaft. 9. link 12. pivoted lever 14. link It. bell crank I8. and l nk 80 connecti the bell crank HI to arm R2 of the awl driver 39.

The needle carrier is actuated from a crank 84 arm of which is provided with a roller engaging the cam surface, while the forwardly projecting arm is provided with rack teeth :98 engaging the pinion 62 which meshes with the carrier teeth 69. These parts are shown and described in detail in said prior patent.

In the preferred embodiment of the invention shown in Figs. 2 to 6, the awl carrier is provided with a curved cutter or knife I80, shown detached in 6, which is clamped together with the awl between the cap piece and the car rier by the clamping bolt 30 and nut 32. The outside iace of the blade portion "ll of the cutter is curved in an are having a radius substantially that of the path of the cutting edge 12 when adjusted to trim the normal distance from the outseam, while the lnsidesurface is curved to provide a blade section which increases in thickness from the cutting edge to the shank, the increase being slight for' some distance back from the cutting edge and more rapid adjacent the shank. Not only does this form of blade provide the necessary strength and rigidity for cutting through the thick and hard sole leather of the outsole, but since the increase of blade thickness is all on theinside face, there is no wedging or compression of the work toward or against the awl, such action being wholly in the opposite direction toward the free edge of the work, thus not only facilitating the trimming operation but avoiding all interference with the sewing of the seam. The outside 01' the blade is likewise curved or rounded transversely, and the inside of the blade is hollow ground to provide a curved blade section and cutting edge, this shape of section providing a relatively stifi blade with a minimum of blade thickness to reduce binding or pinching as the blade passes through the. work.

The shank portion I03 01' the knife is straight and is substantially rectangular in section, being received in cooperating channels in the awl carrier 20 and cap piece 28. Since the direction of these channels is substantially perpendicular to the direction in which the cutting edge of the trimming knife a'cts, adjustment of the shank along said channels serves to vary the position of the cutting edge toward or away from the awl in substantially a radial direction with respect to the center of oscillation of the knife, thus enabling the shoe to be trimmed at various distances from the line of the outseam.

To aid the operator of the machine in adjusting the trimming cutter to its desired position, the cutter is arranged to be yieldingly retained in position while the clamping nut 32 is loosened, the shank being readily movable, however, by the operator along the channel to proper position. This is accomplished by providing a cut or split I95 at the end of the shank S03, the ends of the shank being sprung apart slightly to afford a' yielding frictional engagement with the sides of the shank receiving channels in awl carrier and cap piece. v

The presser foot 16 is provided with an aperture in the form of a vertically directed slot Hi6 through which the blade of the trimming cutter may pass to complete its cutting stroke. The slot is of such width as to accommodate the trimming cutter in its various adjusted positions and long enough to allow for the work feeding movements of the awl carrier on which the cutter is mounted,

the awl and the edge cutting stroke of the trimming knife.

The work support I4 is likewise modified slightly to accommodate the edge trimming cutter, the 5 rear edge portion being cut away at the rear to provide clearance for the cutter throughout the length of the feed stroke.

A modified form of the invention is illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8 and comprises a pair of edge trimming cutters or knives I 08 and H0 mounted on the needle and awl carriers respectively, each knife cutting the edge portion of the shoe alternately and in alternately downward and upward directions as the needle and awl are actuated to ming cutters are provided with curved shanks and thin flat section blade portions, substantially concentric with the needle and awl, the ends of the shank portions of the knives being offset inwardly with respect to the blade portions to provide space for the clamping bolts 30 and 54.

The work support, instead of being cut away rearwardly of the path of the trimming cutter, as in the first described embodiment of the invention, is provided at its rear with an aperture H2 adequate to accommodate the thin-bladed needle and awl trimming cutters, thereby affording support to the extreme edge portions of the shoe to withstand the downward cutting stroke of the 80 trimming knife I 08 mounted on the needle carrier.

In this modification of the invention the needle guide is constructed and arranged also to provide support to the upper trimming cutter I08 mounted on the needle carrier to prevent springing of the cutter blade out of its proper path during itstrimming stroke, the upper cutter being of somewhat greater length than the lower cutter and therefore more liable to such derangement. This 40 support is provided by the lugs 64 above referred to, the inner faces of which are positioned and shaped to be slidingly engaged by the periphery of the cutter blade, as illustrated in Fig. 8, whereby outward deflection of the blade is prevented. The outsole stitching and trimming operations are carried on simultaneously in the sewing of the seam in the usual manner with the machine in which the invention is embodied. In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the trim- 60 ming stroke of the cutter takes place during the work-piercing stroke of the awl, the awl entering the work slightly in advance of the cutter in order to distribute the thrust or load on the part and also so that the awl may assist the work support 55 and presser foot in holding the work against lateraldisplacement by the cutter. While the awl and cutter are still in the work they are given their work-feeding strokes, the awl carrier during such work feeding stroke of the awl remaining .60 substantially stationary as far as oscillatory movement is concerned. as described in said prior patent. The presence of both the cutter and the awl in the work during this feeding movement of the awl enables the cutter to cooperate with the 65 awl in feeding the work. After the feeding is,

form the outseam. In this modification the trimupon the parts than where, as in the first form,

the full cut is efiected in a single stroke of the one cutter.

In either embodiment of the invention, the sole trimming operation proceeds automatically without the attention of the operator and without interference with the formation of the outseam.

The arrangements described permit the shoe to be trimmed a uniform distance from the outseam even when relatively heavy work is being sewn,

such as illustrated in the drawings which show the cutters removi excess edge material from both the outsole H4 and the upper H6. In the case of the first described embodiment, where a single cutter performs the entire trimming operation, the cutter, though adjustable, may be rigidly clamped in adjusted position, there being no tendency to slip relative to the carrier since the direction of the cutting stroke at the blade edge is perpendicular to the shank portion of the cutter.

The appearance of the simultaneously sewn and trimmed shoe is illustrated in fragmentary view in Fig. 9, which shows the trimmed outline of outsole and upper following the contour of the shoe just outside the edge of the welt strip H8.

operations.

, While theinvention has been illustrated and described as embodied in a particular machine, it will be understood that the invention is not so limited, but may be embodied in other types of shoe sewing machines employing a curved needle and a curved awl. Furthermore, the invention is not limited to the specific constructions and arrangements shown, but may be embodied in other constructions and arrangements within the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described the invention, what is claimed is:

1. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, with the other stitch forming and work feeding devices, a curved hook needle and a curved awl, needle and awl carriers, means for oscillating the carriers to cause the needle and awl to enter the work from opposite sides, and cooperating trimming cutters mounted on the needle and awl carriers for trimming the outsole simultaneously with the formation of the outseam.

2. An outsole shoe sewing machine-having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, a pivotally mounted needle carrier. a curved awl, a pivotally mounted awl carrier, a trimming cutter on the needle carrier and a second trimming cutter on the awl carrier for trimming the outsole during the formation of the outseam, and means for oscillating the carriers to cause the cutters to make alternate cutting strokes.

3. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle, a pivotally mounted needle carrier, a curved awl positioned to enter the work on the opposite side from the needle, a pivotally mounted awl carrier, a trimming cutter on the needle carrier, a second trimming cutter on the awl carrier to trim the outsole during the formation of the outseam, and means for operating the carriers to cause the cutters to trim the outsole alternately first from one side and then from the other.

4. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination with the other stitch forming and 5 work feeding devices, a curved hook needle and.

a curved awl, an awl carrier adapted to be oscillated to cause the awl to enter and ,to withdraw from the work, means for securing the awl to the awl carrier in fixed radial relation to the center of oscillation of the carrier, a trimming cutter having a cutting edge, and means for securing said cutter to the awl carrier, said means permitting adjustment of the radial relation of the cutting edge of the cutter to the aforesaid center of oscillation of the carrier whereby the outsole may be trimmed a predetermined uniform distance from the outseam during the formation of the same.

5, An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curved awl, an awl carrier, means for oscillating the carrier to cause the awl to enter and withdraw from the work, and a trimming cutter comprising a straight shank portion and a curved blade portion having a cutter edge at the end thereof adapted to act in a direction substan tially'perpendicular to the shank portion, said cutter being mounted in the awl carrier for oscillating movement therewith and having provision for lengthwise adjustment of the shank on the carrier to vary the radius of oscillation of the cutting edge for trimming the work at various distances from the outseam.

6. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle and a curved awl, an awl carrier, means for oscillating the carrier for causing the awl to enter and withdraw from the work, a trimming cutter comprising a shank portion and a blade portion having a cutting edge, means for clamping the cutter shank in the awl carrier, said shank being movable in the awl carrier to adjust the trimming position of the cutter when the clamping means is loosened, and means for retaining the cutter yieldingly in adjusted position while the clamping means is being tightened.

7. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in

combination, stitch forming devices including a curved hook needle and a curved awl, an awl carrier, means for oscillating the same to cause the awl to enter and withdraw from the work, said awl carrier including a cap piece and threaded means for clamping the awl in the awl carrier, and an outsole trimming cutter comprising a straight shank portion and a curved portion having a cutting edge at the end thereof, the awl carrier being provided with cooperating 0 channels adapted to receive the shank of the trimming cutter and in which the shank is clamped by the threaded means, said shank being split for a portion of its length to provide yielding frictional engagement with the channels whereby, when the clamping means is loosened, the shank may be moved along the channels to adjust the position of the cutting edge of the cutter radially with respect to the awl and retained in adjusted position while the clamping .70 means is being tightened.

8. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curvedawl, needle and awl carriers, means for oscillating said carriers to cause the needle and awl to enter and withdraw from the work, a needle guide, and an edge trimming cutter secured to the needle carrier for trimming the work a uniform distance from the outseam during the formation of the same, said needle guide having it provision for guiding, during the trimming operation, the edge trimming cutter.

9. A trimming cutter for use in an outsole shoe sewing machine employing a curved awl adapted to be oscillated to cause the awl to enter l0 and withdraw from the work, said cutter being adapted to be mounted adjacent the awl for oscillatory movement therewith and comprising a straight shank portion and a curved blade portion having a cutting edge at the end thereof, 15 the blade portion having a curved sectional shape transversely to afford rigidity to the blade.

10. A trimming cutter for use in an outsole shoe sewing machine employing a curved awl adapted to be oscillated to cause the awl to enter 2a and withdraw from the work, said cutter being adapted to be mounted adjacent the awl for oscillatory movement therewith and comprising a straight shank portion and a curved blade portion having a. cutting edge at the end thereof, 25 the exterior of the blade portion being convexly curved transversely and the interior concavely curved transversely to provide a thin but relatively stiff blade.

11. A trimming cutter for use in an outsole 30 shoe sewing machine employing a curved awl mounted in an awl carrier adapted to be oscillated to cause the awl to enter and withdraw from the work, said cutter being adapted to be clamped in the awl carrier for oscillatory move- 35 merits therewith and comprising a shank portion which is split and separated slightly adjacent one end to provide frictional engagement with the, carrier whereby the cutter may be yieldingly retained in position in the awl carrier when 4 unclamped.

12. An outsole shoe sewing machine having,

, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curved awl, a pivotally mounted awl carrier, and 45 a trimming cutter mounted on the awl carrier for oscillating movement therewith to trim the outsole during the formation of the outseam,

\ substantially concentric with respect to the awl.

13. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curved 55 awl, a pivotally mounted awl carrier, and a trimming cutter mounted on the awl carrier for oscillating movement therewith to trim the outsole during the formation of the outseam, said trimming cutter having a curved blade portion pro- 0 vided with a cutting edge at the end thereof, the outside face of the blade portion being substantially concentric with the awl and having substantiallythe same radius as the path of oscillation of the cutting edge of the trimming cutter. 65

14. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curved awl, a pivotally mounted awl carrier, and a trimming cutter mounted on the awl carrier for oscil- 7o lating movement therewith to trim the outsole during the formation of the outseam, said trimming cutter comprising a curved blade portion concentrically disposed with respect to and of lesser radius than the awl and provided with a 75 rier, means for oscillating the same to cause the awl to enter and withdraw from the work, said awl carrier including a cap piece and threaded means for clamping the awl in the awl carrier,

and an outsole trimming cutter comprising a shank portion and a curved blade portion having a cutting edge at the end thereof, the cutter being secured in the awl carrier by the said cap piece and threaded means, with the shank portion of the cutter on the opposite side of the threaded means from the awl.

16. A trimming cutter for use in an outsole shoe sewing machine employing a curved awl mounted in an awl carrier adapted to be oscillated to cause the awl to enter and withdraw from the work, said cutter being adapted to be clamped in the awl carrier for oscillatory movements therewith and comprising a blade portion having a cutting edge at the end thereof, the outside face of the blade portion being curved in an arc having a radius substantially that of the path in which the cutting edge is adapted to be oscillated, the .blade portion decreasing in radial thickness toward the cutting edge at the end thereof.

1'7. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curved awl, a pivotally mounted awl carrier and a trimming cutter mounted on the awl carrier for oscillating movement therewith to trim the outsole during the formation of the outseam, said trimming cutter comprising a blade portion curved in the arc of a circle substantially concentric with the pivot of the awl carrier, but of a lesser radius than the awl, and having a cutting edge extending in the direction of work feed.

18. In a stitcher for leather or like material, a curved awl oscillating about an axis for piercing and feeding the work, a curved needle for forming stitches in the work, and a work trimming knife blade parallel to and movable about said axis in a path between the same and the path of said awl.

19. In a stitcher for leather or like material, a flat work support, a curved awl oscillating about an axis lying in the plane of said work support but spaced from the latter, a curved needle for forming stitches in the work, and a work trimming knife blade with an edge parallel to said axis'and movable about said axis in a path between the same and the path of said awl.

20. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curved awl, a work support, a presser foot, a pivotally mounted awl carrier, and a trimming cutter mounted on the awl carrier for oscillating movement therewith to trim the full thickness of the marginal material clamped between the work support and presser foot against the support furnished by the presser-foot during the work plerc ing stroke of the awl, the length of the cutter being such that the awl enters the work slightly in advance of the cutter to distribute the thrust of the awl and cutter on the presser-foot.

21. An outsole shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming and work feeding devices including a curved hook needle and a curved work feeding awl, a work support, a presser-foot, a pivotally mounted awl carrier, and a trimming cutter mounted on the awl carrier for oscillating movement therewith to trim the full thickness of the marginal material clamped between the work support and presser-foot against the support furnished by the presser-foot, the length of the cutter being such that the trimming stroke of the cutter takes place during the work piercing stroke of the awl and before'the feeding movement of the awl whereby the cutter coopcrates with the awl during the work feeding movement thereof.

FRED ASHWORTH.

Patent No. 2,222,972.

CERTIFICATE OF CORRECTION- November 26, 19!;0. mm) ASHWORTH.

It is hereby certified that error appears in the printed specification of the above numbered patent requiring correetion as-tollowa: iege 1, sec-- 0nd column, line 51, for the word "smaller" I read -.-eimilar-; and that the amid Letters Patent should be read with this correction therein that the eame may'confom to the record of the case in the Patent Office.

Signed and sealed this 11th day of February, A. 1). 19m.

Henry Van Aredale, (Seil) Acting Commiaeioner of Patents. 

